Text may contain incorrect information! Please - before using any of the advice, please use your head - "Is this info reasonable?", "Are these figures right?" If in doubt/higher state of knowledge than I am, please mail me. -- N. Ipo
Ever wonder what it would be like, if LSD, for instance, would grow everywhere, like the grass on your front lawn? Well LSD doesn't. But DMT -- it's everywhere, probably on your front lawn, too. Everybody knows mushrooms, and the Amazonian virolas, but have you ever heard of Phalaris.
This file contains information about growing Phalaris grasses, increasing their alkaloid content, extraction of the alkaloids, and some thoughts on DMT, Life and the Universe.
I am sure you all understood that this is strictly FOR INFORMATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY. I am not asking you people to do this, only presenting my own and others' views. And remember all you guys and gals out there - love each other.
This is the DMT, Life and the Universe #1. Please destroy any preliminary copies you may have. Last updated 21.8.1995. ©1995 N. Ipo. All rights reserved. This work may be reproduced with permission from the author.
Phalaris arundinacea, reed canary grass, grows everywhere in the world outside the polar regions. In Europe, Northern and Eastern Asia (partly in Central-), In North America from New Brunswick to the Southeastern parts of Alaska, from North Carolina to New Mexico, Arizona and Northeastern parts of California. Also in New Zealand. As for Finland (and Scandinavia) where I live, it grows on rocky shores througout the country. It is common.
Phalaris aquatica, also known as P. tuberosa, is native to the mediterranean region, but as a result of agromomic interest and investigation that followed has wide distribution in grassland regions. Most probably this plant can be found in Mediterranean, Southern Australia and in US California, Missisippi or Oregon [areas where native aquatica has been found]. Note that this grass can be found in several other places as (escaped) cultivar.
There are several other Phalarii, such as californica, canariensis, minor and arundinacea-aquatica hybrids. Excluding the hybrid these are of little interest, except taxonomically. No DMT have been found in any of these.
Most likely Phalaris grows on lake- and riverbanks and on seashores, especially rocky. It is often accompanied by Festuca arundinacea, Angelica archangelica ssp. litoralis, Sochus arvensis and Veronica longifolia. Phalaris grows often in rings and in the middle of the spot grows Calla palustris and Bidens-species. Tufts it forms are often only Phalaris, but Phragmites, Carex acuta and Iris pseudoacorus may grow amidst it. And especially watch out for Dactylis glomerata, which looks much like Phalaris, but is smaller and has lobed inflorescence.
Tall grass, usually about 1 meter up to 2 m., 4 to 7 jointed, hard and smooth (sometimes reddish), leaves 7 to 30 cm long and 1-2.5 cm wide. The "flower" is 10 cm long, dense, the seed is appr. 1,7 mm. Pictures and very accurate descriptions of this grass are easy to find in any library (and I would recommend finding several).
Perennial from scaly, creeping rhizomes; culms [stems] 50-150 cm tall; leaves usually green, occasionally striped with white (in f. picta); panicle [inflorescence?] 7-40 cm long, lobed and branched at the base, the branches up to 5 cm long, spreading during anthesis; glumes 3.5-7.5 mm long, more or less equal, acute, usually wingless, when winged, the wing very narrow and inconspicuous, glabrous or with a few appressed scattered hairs; sterile florets 2, 1.2-2.3 mm long ; subutate, pubescent; grain 1.5-2 mm long, 0.7-1.0 mm wide, subovoid brown with faintly striate surface; somatic chromosome number 14, 27, 28, 20, 30, 31, 35, or 42; the chromosomes cs. 5.0 um long at diakinesis.
Perennial; culms from a dense crown or a loose base with short rhizomes, culms often bulbous at the base, up to 1.5 m tall; panicle 1.5-11.0 cm long, 1.0-2.5 cm wide, usually cylindric, sometimes ovate-cylindric, occasionally lobed at the base; glumes 4.4-7.5 mm long, 1.0-2.0 mm wide, glabrous, rarely hisute, broadly winged, the wing almost always entire, rarely somewhat erose; fertile floret 3.1-4.6 mm long, 1.2-1.5 mm wide, lanceolate, densely pubescent; sterile florets 1 or sometimes 2, 0.2-2.2 mm long, when 2 are present the lowermost is often less than 0.5 mm long; caryopsis 2.2-2.5 mm long, 1.2-1.3 mm wide, light brown, surface faintly striate; chromosome number n=28, the chromosomes ca. 6-7 um long at diakinesis.
Alkaloid-contents vary considerably in both P. arundinacea and P. aquatica (From study to study and in real life). There are three genotypes: G, MeO and T. G stands for gramine genotype, MeO for methoxy and T for non-methoxy derivatives of tryptamine-genotypes. T and MeO genotypes are dominant, G is recessive. And good news is that if the alkaloid content in certain genotype was high, the heritability of this genotype was also high.
|Types of alkaloids||genotype group|
Percentages are total alkaloid contents, not DMT-contents. Either way these percentages are good only for illustrating the considerable variation. There is no way of knowing your plants alkaloid content without chromatography equipment. Note that drying lowers the alkaloid content.
P. arundinacea alk. contents may be anything from 0.0004% of the dry plant matter to 0.121% of the dry plant matter (ie. 6.3 kg - 21 g of grass equals one 20 mg dose if 80% of the alkaloids are DMT).
P. aquatica may contain anything from 0.0007% of the dry plant matter to 0.18% of the dry plant matter (ie. 3,5 kg - 21 g of grass equals one dose).
To be certain all the extraction procedures are worth the try one has to try to maximize the alkaloid content by choosing right strain, and by growing this strain right.
It has been hypothized that tryptamines, especially DMT, would be responsible for Phalaris-staggers in sheep (ventricular fibrillation, cardiac arrest). This is not true, as sheep have experienced the staggers from low-alkaloid strains.
P. arundinacea contains no 5-MeO-NMT (bufotenine); P. aquatica, on the other hand, could possibly contain toxic amounts of 5-MeO-NMT, but levels should stay under treshold-dose even in high doses - the alkaloids in Phalaris should be safe to use as directed.
Growing Phalaris is very easy - it is an grass that can tolerate floods and extreme drought. A plant dug out of the ground and left without any water for 6 days suffers only minor wilting. Severe wilting occurs after drought over 9 days in duration. Placing the whole plant underwater doesn't kill the plant. Achieving optimum alkaloid-level, however, takes some skill. Time never stops, and everyone wants to get their Phalaris as big and trypty in as short time as possible. Parts you are after are leaves - leaves have the highest alkaloid contents - so don't harvest anything else - highest alkaloid concentrations are found in immature grass and leaf blades, lowest in leaf sheaths, stems and roots.
Starting from seeds is easy. Get some shallow (10 cm/4") pots. Tray with edges will do, bucket is fine - anything that can hold some soil together, something that doesn't rot or suck the water from the soil. Regular plastic pots are fine. Dont use clay/unglazed ceramic pots, these hold water. Place soil in the container, wet it thoroughly, and place seeds on the soil. You can soak the seeds for 24 or 12 or 6 hours before if you want to - this will speed up the process a bit. Cover the seeds with thin layer of soil (say like 3 mm). Spray the soil with water, and cover the container with clear plastic so that humidity stays high. If you can raise the temperature couple of degrees (23-25 C), seeds will germinate faster. After couple of days first sprouts should be visible, remove the plastic. Clammy loam works best for Phalaris, but almost any soil will do. Regular gardening soil is fine. Note that it may take even two weeks for the seeds to sprout. Optimum temperature for vegetative growth would be about 22 C degrees. Some grow at even higher temperatures, this depends on the strain you are growing. Temperatures as high as 30 C may speed the growth provided plant receives enough water.
Alkaloids in phalarii can be increased with stressing. Stressing, on the other hand, slows the growth and decreases the total yield. I will refer to any action that increases the total alkaloid-yield by stressing. These methods work for both P. arundinacea and aquatica. There are three basic methods in stressing: clipping, shading and moisture control.
Clipping is relatively easy. Take clean scissors into your right hand, hold the plant still with your left hand, and SNIP, your plant just got stressed. But simply clipping the plants shorter will decrease your total yield. Wait until the plant is about 10 or 20 cm (1/2') high. Cut right above the leaf. Wait until you get another leaf, above which to cut, could be two days or two weeks. Clipping increases tryptamine content by 50 % to even 400%. The amount of betacarbolines is roughly doubled.
Shading is quite controversial issue. Shading slows the growth, and seems to affect different strains different ways. I will try to shed some light into shadows. First of all, you will probably grow your plants indoors, and if these plants are not on the windowsill, they will not be receiving anything near the light plants outdoors do, where all the studies are made. Forget shading. If you grow yours outdoors/near good light source, shading might be useful. Shade the plants for their last 1/4th or 1/5th of the growing-period.
In practice, placing a sheet of glass/plexiglass or a thin net between the plants and the light source should work. Glass eats anything from couple to 20% (dirty) of the light.
Amount of shading is quite troublesome, too. General mean value would be maybe 5 to 15%. Arundinacea responds to smaller shifts, halve the figures. Shading increases the tryptamine content by 20 to 30%.
Moisture-stressing is also quite easy. You don't water for a week or so. Interestingly, plants droughted for a long time produce some unknown alkaloid. Young plants respond better to drought, whereas older (+30d) may not show any response in respect to the alkaloid content. Regrowths grown from droughted plants (which did not show response) had a higher alkaloid content. If you wilt, wilt young plants. No water for a period of 5 to 10 days. If any damage (brown leaf tips etc.) begins to show, stop wilting. Note that although the plants cannot be rotted to death with overwatering, it slows the growth. Let the soil dry out every now and then. Phalaris likes lots of water, and overwatering of it means LOTS of water if you compare to average houseplant. Moisture stress may as much as double the alkaloid content.
To get high leaf mass, your plant needs high amounts of water, light, and nutrients. Nutrients, on the other hand, have been shown to have a negative effect on the alkaloid content - adequate fertilization may in fact lower the total alkaloid content. And stressing decreases the leaf mass. So you must walk the fine line between these two. Make a growing program, divided in 4 to 8 parts. During certain parts you maximise the leaf mass. And during certain parts you maximise the alkaloid content.
Simon Sez grows Phalaris aquatica. 1st period goes almost entirely to germination, as the seeds dry out a bit, "Whatta dumb mistake," Simon thinks, as third of the seeds won't germinate anymore.
2nd and 3rd period Simon has dedicated for growth. Simon gives the plants nutrients; during 2nd period complete, well balanced N-P-K (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) and micronutrient (Zn,B,Cu, Fe, Mn, etc.) fertilizer, and during 3rd only natural nitrogen. Every now and then he snips the top off 'em.
4th period is about fasting - Simon gives plants no water.
During the 5th Simon begins to feel sorry for the plants and after giving them adequate, but not too much!, watering, lets them grow.
And at the beginning of the 6th period, Simon thinks that its time to chill out a bit, so he sneaks the plants into large fridge his friend has (after giving it a dose of nitrogen fertilization). Just for a night. Its always above 0 C, but below 6 C.
Last days the plants get to grow normally. Then Simon strips the leaves, and lets the plants do their own thing for a while, as he tries to put together the wheat grass juicer he got without any instructions. That would theoretically make 200% for the clipping, 25% for the 4th, 10-200% for the 6th. But in reality the increase in tryptamines cannot be calculated so easily. But lot anyhow. Simon smiles happily.
The period length is also important - alkaloid content rises steadily as the plant grows, and is highest at 30 to 50 days. Simon had 7 day periods =).
Fertilizers - problematic. Don't use good, rich soil - if the plants get enough of micronutrients, alkaloid content is diminished. Mix regular gradening soil with sand and rocks to get a good mix (for example 1/3rd of each). When the plant is young, ensure adequate nutrition with liquid fertilizers, then move to only nitrogen fertilization, and finally give only water (for example first quarter, second quarter and last half, resp.). This makes plants grow fast, big and finally tryptish. Phalaris can use fairly large amounts of fertilizers, but stick to the instructions of the manufacturer until you know what you are doing. Urine is an excellent excellent nitrogen fertilizer - add about half an desiliter (2 oz) per liter of water (1/5gallon?) - fully organic and very soluable.
Cloning - an easy way to get more plants. First pick your best plant - healthy, big and high in alkaloids. Wait till you harvest, and then cut the whole stem off, place it underwater, glass or a bucket does fine, cut in small pieces, add small amounts of seaweed(-extract) and wait couple of days. After that place pieces in pots, and keep humid. It might take as long as 3 weeks for first signs of life, but try to keep the soil relatively humid - not wet, humid. Excess water may attract molds and fungi. You can also take part of the rhizome (root) and do the same thing. Simply divide the rhizome and place the pieces in soil. Water with light seaweed-extract-solution. Wait. Leaves are of no use here, they will only rot away.
Harvesting the fruits of labor is very easy. Simply cut out the leaves. If you like you can leave one leaf/stem to speed up the regrowth. Remove parts of the stem above the leaf. Plant will continue growing for a long time. Repotting the plant or dividing the rhizomes often gives plant new vigour. Repot at least once a year.
Time of the day has no effect on the tryptamine content if you are growing indoors or in an greenhouse. Outside, morning harvest may rise alkaloid content.
If you are producing seeds - don't clip, have at least four of such plants, all from different sources, and of good strain. Let these grow, and when the seed production has started, place a clear bag over the flower. Bags made of loose nylon mesh are best. Plants produced from seed often have more energy than plants that have been cloned from a clone (and so-on). Produce seeds at least once in two years to ensure the vigour of your plants.
Extraction of DMT and 5-MeO-DMT, which it contains, is relatively simple. However one should get some basic information on chemistry and the substances used in process as some of them are poisonous. To find good substitutes, please see solvent FAQ, or some chem-books.
Following extraction is relatively efficient. You need acid "A" (Hydrochloride, vinegar or acetic acid), defatting solution "B" (Methylene chloride, naphta, acetone), base "C" (Ammonium hydroxide, lye), kettle, filter or cheesecloth, two containers, extraction funnel, pH meter or paper.
Find all this equipment, read and understand how the extraction works, and find a place you can do it in. Harvest.
If you have fresh grass, place it in freezer overnight. Next morning take it out, let it soften just a bit and place it in blender or juicer or chopper and blow it to pieces. If you want to be thorough, you can freeze it again after first chopping, and chop again next morning. This is done to rupture the cells of the plant to free as much of the alkaloids as possible.
Dried grass pulverizes (literally!) easily in blender. Dont open the lid immediately, or some of your finest powder will float away. Note that drying will lower the alkaloid-content (as a result of plants metabolism).
Add small amounts of water to make the mush/powder pourable. This is called Mixture. You can now begin.
If you need to add some smokable material to this tar, simply add some solvent or alcohol (spirits over 40% of total alcohol in volume). Mix in the material (organo is fine), and let the liquid evaporate.
As for dosage, the person extracting the alkaloids should do everything with relative accuracy - it is easy to maintain the same dosage later. Dosage would be confirmed by experimentation - first 1/4 gram, if nothing 1/2 gram, and so on...
Once a good strain of Phalaris has been found, complicated time- and effort consuming extraction with solvents and bases may not be necessary. Simply find a good wheat grass juicer and juice fresh leaves, evaporate the resulting liquid in an shallow container and gather the resulting dark tar.
Pulverize dried Phalaris leaves. Mix powder with 1/3 acetic acid or lemon juice and 2/3 water-solution. Let simmer for 12 hours. Filter the liquid, put it aside, and in another solution-mix, simmer the mush for 12 hours. Filter again, combine liquids, and put in shallow container and allow to evaporate. Resulting goo may or may not be psychoactive. I have not done this extraction myself.
There is no way of knowing how much DMT will be in your extraction. Start low and aim carefully. Good starting dose for smoked DMT is 15-20mg, and 5-MeO-DMT 3 or 4 mg, so start low, especially if you think you've got your hands on good aquatica-extract. One could for instance start with 25 mg. If you get no psychoactive effects from this dose, double it. Continue until you find suitable dose. Remember that if you don't get enough DMT into your brain in short time, more will not get you through - you will have to wait about half an hour, although I must say the warm body-glow and lightheaded feeling are not unpleasant at all. But there is more to it...
Most Psychedelic drugs are just like other drugs - LSD, 2CB, MDMA, you name it - human made, tied to the society, in the hands of international crime and shackles of our laws. Altered conciousness made dirty with crime and drug prohibition wars, and in the end connected to the deadly virus that has humanity by its throat - MONEY.
There is no longer need to subject yourself to any of those negative forces. Mushrooms grow in abundance almost all over the world. Phalaris-grass makes DMT available to almost anyone. Don't sell these - if necessary give them away for free - selling makes the whole experience inpure. The experience is not necessarily recreational - DMT is one of the most powerful entheogens there is. Prepare yourself properly.
"Let the sun shine in..."
I'd like to hear your opinions and comments